You may check if this book 

Costumes and Ornaments as Depicted in the Sculptures of Gwalior Museum

By Sulochana Ayyar

comes to your help. 

On Sun, Aug 22, 2021 at 6:54 PM Nagaraj Paturi <nagarajpaturi@gmail.com> wrote:
Here, it is defined as a knot in front:

1) नीविः, नीवी nīviḥ, nīvī (p. 936)

नीविः nīviḥनीवी nīvī f. [निव्ययति निवीयते वा निव्ये-इन्; cf. Uṇ.4, 135] 1 A cloth worn round a woman's waist, or more properly the ends of the cloth tied into a knot in front, the knot of the wearing garment; प्रस्थानभिन्नां न बबन्ध नीविम् R.7.9; नीविबन्धोच्छ्वसनम् Mā.l.2.5; Ku.1.38; नीविं प्रति प्रणिहिते तु करे प्रियेण K. P.4; Me.70; Śi.10.64. -2 The outer tie of a packet in which the offerings of a Sūdra at funeral obsequies are presented. -3 Capital, principal, stock; नीवीमवलिखतः द्विगुणः (दण्डः) Kau. A 2.7; शेषमायव्ययौ नीवी च Kau A.2.6. -4 A stake, wager. -5 Prison; नीवी स्याद्बन्धनागारे धने स्त्रीवस्त्रबन्धने Nm.


On Sun, Aug 22, 2021 at 6:41 PM Tieken, H.J.H. via INDOLOGY <indology@list.indology.info> wrote:

Apparently, in the Subhāṣitaratnakośa edited and translated by Ingalls the word nīvi occurs only once, namely in 696. But you might also have a look at the note added to this translation on p. 516. There, Ingalls refers to Kauṭilya's Arthaśāstra, unfortunately to an edition (the one from Trivandrum) of this text I do not have.

Herman


Herman Tieken
Stationsweg 58
2515 BP Den Haag
The Netherlands
00 31 (0)70 2208127

Van: INDOLOGY <indology-bounces@list.indology.info> namens Gaia Pintucci via INDOLOGY <indology@list.indology.info>
Verzonden: zondag 22 augustus 2021 14:37:01
Aan: Indology
Onderwerp: [INDOLOGY] A few Indian clothing items
 

Dear list members,

I have a few questions about (ancient/medieval) Indian clothing items.

My starting point is Amaruśataka 100:

kānte talpam upāgate vigalitā nīvī svayaṃ bandhanād

vāso viślathamekhalāguṇadhṛtaṃ kiṃcinnitambe sthitam |

etāvat sakhi vedmi sampratam ahaṃ tasyāṅgasaṅge punaḥ

ko 'yaṃ kāsmi rataṃ nu vā katham iti svalpāpi me na smṛtiḥ ||

Once the nāyikā's nīvī falls off by itself, her dress (vāsas) hangs a little bit from the “threads” of her mekhalā. So there are (at least) three layers, which, from the innermost to the outermost, are: 1) mekhalā 2) dress 3) nīvī.

A mekhalā should be a belt made of metal, so I guess it has some wires or thin chains (the guṇas of the stanza) that hang and that might be decorated with pearls and the like. This explains how it is that in the stanza the dress is said to hang from the mekhalā: it gets caught on the wires/chains and the decorative items.

But the nīvī is the item I am especially curious about. It is defined in Amarakoṣa 3.3.213 (I follow Oka's 1913 edition with Kṣīrasvāmin's commentary, p. 217) in this way: strīkaṭīvastrabandhe 'pi nīvī [paripaṇe 'pi ca]. An Amaruśataka commentator called Caturbhuja glosses nīvī as vastragranthiḥ. A different commentator, Sūryadāsa, explains the sentence nīvī svayaṃ bandhanād vigalitā with the words nitambasicaye bandhanāt saṃniveśād granthiḥ visrastaḥ. It seems to me that a nīvī should be both a sash that steadies the clothes on the hips and the knot of the sash.

Now, my questions/requests are:

0) Please, kindly let me know if I am on the wrong track with regard to the mekhalā and the nīvī.

1) In one manuscript of Sūryadāsa's commentary the word nīvī is followed by the word dhudhurikā, which might well be a gloss. The scribe was active in Bundi (Rajasthan), is dhudhurikā a Rajasthani word?

2) Can anyone show me a painting or other kind of image of a lady wearing a nīvī?

3) Does anyone know roughly when and where the kind of clothing I described above was in use?

4) As far as I know, in present-day India nivi is the name of one of the sari binding styles. Is this word related to the Sanskrit word nīvī?

Sorry for the long brainstorming and the many questions.

All the best,

Gaia Pintucci




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--
Nagaraj Paturi
 
Hyderabad, Telangana, INDIA.


Director, Indic Academy
BoS, MIT School of Vedic Sciences, Pune, Maharashtra
BoS Kavikulaguru Kalidasa Sanskrit University, Ramtek, Maharashtra
BoS Veda Vijnana Gurukula, Bengaluru.
Member, Advisory Council, Veda Vijnana Shodha Samsthanam, Bengaluru
BoS Rashtram School of Public Leadership
Editor-in-Chief, International Journal of Studies in Public Leadership
Former Senior Professor of Cultural Studies, 
FLAME School of Communication and FLAME School of  Liberal Education, 
Hyderabad, Telangana, INDIA.
 
 
 


--
Nagaraj Paturi
 
Hyderabad, Telangana, INDIA.


Director, Indic Academy
BoS, MIT School of Vedic Sciences, Pune, Maharashtra
BoS Kavikulaguru Kalidasa Sanskrit University, Ramtek, Maharashtra
BoS Veda Vijnana Gurukula, Bengaluru.
Member, Advisory Council, Veda Vijnana Shodha Samsthanam, Bengaluru
BoS Rashtram School of Public Leadership
Editor-in-Chief, International Journal of Studies in Public Leadership
Former Senior Professor of Cultural Studies, 
FLAME School of Communication and FLAME School of  Liberal Education, 
Hyderabad, Telangana, INDIA.